Anti-Aging Peptides

AI Generated Abstract Molecular Shape of Amino Acid from Adobe Stock.

What are peptides?

Peptides are strings of amino acids that help our bodies function and heal in a myriad of ways. The human body naturally produces more than 7000. (1) Over the past several decades, peptides have emerged as an effective ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

How do they work?

With regard to skincare, generally speaking, peptides increase the production of collagen and elastin. This helps treat and prevent things like wrinkles and sagging skin. Here’s a breakdown of those found in topical preparations like creams and serums:

Signal peptides help direct the body's biological resources on a cellular level. (2) When you sustain an injury, they essentially tell your body where to focus its healing efforts. In the skin, they trigger increased production of collagen, elastin, and other extracellular matrix components, which are essential for building new tissue. (3)

Carrier peptides transport essential trace elements, such as copper and manganese, to the skin. In doing so, they boost collagen production and counteract photodamage. (3)

Neurotransmitter peptides, like Argireline, work like Botox, but to a much lesser extent. Whereas Botox paralyzes facial muscles, Argireline reduces the intensity and frequency of muscle contraction. This helps reduce the severity of expression lines, but doesn't completely eliminate them like Botox. (4)

Enzyme-inhibitor peptides have been derived from soybeans, rice and silkworms. They help slow down the aging process by inhibiting enzymes that break down collagen and elastin. (3, 4)

Have they been proven to actually work?

Yes. Numerous clinical studies have been conducted to assess the efficacy of applying cosmetic peptides to the face. The duration of treatment in the studies referred to in this article ranged from eight to twelve weeks, except where noted.

Signal peptides were found to enhance collagen production, reduce collagen breakdown, increase skin elasticity, improve skin tone and reduce wrinkles. (4)

Carrier proteins were observed to promote regeneration, repair damage and have an anti-inflammatory effect. Study participants noticed a decrease in the appearance of photodamage and fine lines. (4)

A study of Argireline (a neurotransmitter peptide) revealed a decrease in wrinkle depth and size after thirty days of use. (4)

Some enzyme-inhibitory peptides brought about an increase in collagen within the matrix that surrounds and supports skin cells. Others demonstrated anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects in studies involving mice. (4)

Are they safe?

Yes. Regulatory agencies (such as the FDA and The Personal Care Products Council) consider the small amount used in cosmetic applications safe and, to date, there have been no long term side effects documented. (4) The fact that they are well tolerated, even by sensitive skin, is one of the characteristics that makes them a favorable anti-aging treatment. 

Since the 1980s, vitamin A derivatives, such as retinol and tretinoin (aka Retin-A), have been the gold standard of topical anti-aging therapy. Unfortunately, these treatments can be very irritating, especially to drier, more mature skin. (5) Conversely, peptides are much better tolerated. Some peptides actually have anti-inflammatory properties and have been found to soothe irritation and decrease redness. (6)

AI Generated Assorted Cosmetic Containers for Skincare Products from Adobe Stock.

How should I integrate peptides into my skincare routine?

You can add a serum to your existing skincare regimen, or switch your moisturizer to one containing peptides. There are many products available, ranging in price from $20 to $25,000. While not all preparations are created equal, it isn’t necessary to break the bank to achieve results. Read reviews and use a brand you trust. Experts recommend using peptides in conjunction with other proven active ingredients, such as vitamin c, niacinamide and retinol, to obtain the greatest benefit. (6,7)

References

1. Modi Wetzler, Paris Hamilton. 8 - Peptides as therapeutics. Editor(s): Sotirios Koutsopoulos, Peptide Applications in Biomedicine, Biotechnology and Bioengineering, Woodhead Publishing, 2018, Pages 215-230. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780081007365000089

2. Creative Proteomics. Signal Peptides: Essential Elements of Protein Targeting and Translocation. https://www.creative-proteomics.com/proteinseq/resource/signal-peptides-elements-of-protein.htm. Accessed May 2, 2025.

3. Pintea A, Manea A, Pintea C, Vlad RA, Bîrsan M, Antonoaea P, Rédai EM, Ciurba A. Peptides: Emerging Candidates for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Senescence: A Review. Biomolecules. 2025 Jan 9;15(1):88. doi: 10.3390/biom15010088. PMID: 39858482; PMCID: PMC11762834.

4. Ngoc LTN, Moon J-Y, Lee Y-C. Insights into Bioactive Peptides in Cosmetics. Cosmetics. 2023; 10(4):111. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040111

5. Fu JJ, Hillebrand GG, Raleigh P, Li J, Marmor MJ, Bertucci V, Grimes PE, Mandy SH, Perez MI, Weinkle SH, Kaczvinsky JR. A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamide/peptide/retinyl propionate product regimen vs. a prescription 0.02% tretinoin product regimen. Br J Dermatol. 2010 Mar;162(3):647-54. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2009.09436.x. PMID: 20374604; PMCID: PMC2841824.

6. Resende DISP, Ferreira MS, Sousa-Lobo JM, Sousa E, Almeida IF. Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2021 Jul 21;14(8):702. doi: 10.3390/ph14080702. PMID: 34451799; PMCID: PMC8400021.

7. Escobar S, Valois A, Nielsen M, Closs B, Kerob D. Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing: three clinical studies. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Apr;43(2):131-135. doi: 10.1111/ics.12665. Epub 2020 Dec 22. PMID: 33038010; PMCID: PMC8247005.

   
   

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